Creepers Gonna Creep

Ah, Minecraft. The amazing computer program that blends creativity and video games so seamlessly that even Mom approves. And she shows her approval by knitting creepers for her kids. Because she sucks at building anything on the actual game. Virtual blocks and pretend pickaxes only confuse her, but she is a whiz at creating stuff with wool (and I don’t mean wool blocks on a screen), so she plays along with her needles instead of her keyboard.

Introducing my little knitted creeper. As seen on Ravelry here

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There are several patterns to chose from on Ravelry (look here) but I decided to wing it when I didn’t see one that fit in the palm of the hand.

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And it was a simple thing to figure out, anyway.

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It’s basically a bunch of blocks put together just right. Here’s how I did it, in case you want to make one like it.

Knit Creeper Pattern

yarn – I used Mosaic Moon Licorice Twist DK in the colorway “Lime SS Trim For Sweet Cream Scoops”, but any sturdy, DK yarn will work.
needles – size 3 DPN’s (or a size that will produce a nice, tight gauge)
gauge – not critical, but you want it tight and small-ish

HEAD

CO 10, knit 12 rows stockinette stitch

Pickup stitches along each side of square (8 stitches along sides and 10 along end) and begin working in round.

Purl first round
Knit 8, purl 1 four times (repeat row 12 times)

Bind off 27 purl wise

Knit across flap (back and forth in stockinette) 12 rows
Stuff and sew shut

BODY

CO 20, join in round
Knit 4, purl 1 four times (repeat that round 11 times)

Bind off 15 purl wise
Knit flap back and forth 7 rows
Bind off, sew shut
Stuff and attach to head at center bottom

LEG repeat four times
Pick up four stitches from center out of bottom of body, CO 1

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Work flap 7 rows st at
Work as for head, adjusting for smaller stitch count

Repeat leg three more times –

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Use tail of one leg to tie inner corner of each leg together to firm up base

Duplicate stitch face on (I used Mal sock black held double)

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Give to resident Minecraft enthusiast and enjoy the happy.

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Pocket Octopus?

A knit of another kind was found on the needles recently. I was commissioned to make an octopus, which is something I never imagined that I would find myself knitting. Turns out, it was a very fun knit. And now, The Boy wants one, too, so there may be more! Ravelry project page here.

IMGP9243_mediumThis is Cephalohedron, an Interweave Knits pattern, and it has a clever secret. Instead of stuffing the head, he has a pouch shoved up in there. Pull the pouch out, and…

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tuck the octopus in and…

IMGP9247_medium2Viola! An octopus in a pocket! He is knit in Knit Picks Shine Worsted, which is one of my favorite cotton yarns. It has such a nice sheen to it, and I think it was the perfect yarn for this under the sea creature. It came out smaller than I had anticipated, even though my gauge was larger than the pattern called for and with the way that his head is stuffed, he is really floppy. But, the recipient was happy and that was the real goal. If I were to knit it again, I would double the yarn and knit on larger needles…. maybe. He turned out pretty cute as is.

The Princess thinks so, too.

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Doll Hair – A Quick and Dirty Tutorial

Okay – I don’t have a doll in progress, so I threw this together for you quick and dirty.

First, decide how long you want your doll’s hair to be, then find a flat item that is about that width. I have used CD cases or small books, or even some paper folded to the right width. Here I am using a wide ruler. You will also need scissors, scotch tape, a sewing machine, a needle, and lots of yarn.
Wrap your yarn around it a lot. Then wrap some more. You can always take some off later. It helps if you know the measurement of the dolls head from the forehead hairline to the nape of the neck. That is how wide you want your swath to be.
I didn’t make this example very wide. You will want more than this – wide enough to cover from forehead to nape of the neck on your doll. Now, cut your end and put a strip of scotch tape across the front.
Turn it over and cut it at the same point in back that your tape is in front, so that both sides are the same length from the tape.
Now it looks like this-
If you have a lot and the tape isn’t holding it well enough, put another piece of tape on the other side so that the yarn is held straight.
Now, sew a seam along the middle of the tape.
So that it looks like this –
(obviously you will want to use matching thread so that it doesn’t show). The sewing perforates the tape so that it comes off easily when you tear it off.
Make two of these.
To attach to the head, use your yarn and a needle and line the seam up with where the dolls part would be and sew it on right down the center. Stitch it securely down the length of the seam, from forehead to nape of the neck.
Sew on the second piece, lining up the seam up with the hairline around the face.
Obviously, my piece is not wide enough. Yours should frame the entire face. When you are done, flip the “bangs” part back and style the hair in pony tails or braids as you please.
 
You could even cut bangs if you wanted to. I haven’t tried that, yet.
These are the dolls that I have used this technique on.
Long braids in lace weight yarn.
Short pony tails in fingering weight.
And even a pony mane.
Inspiration for my technique was found here. She tells in better detail how to measure the head. I just eyeball it. 🙂
Enjoy your wig making!